General Electric NoArk Electrical panels - see FEDERAL NOARK GE GENERAL ELECTRIC. TECHNICAL REFERENCE GUIDE to manufacturer's model and serial number information for heating and cooling equipment, useful for determining the age of heating boilers, furnaces. Letter(s) appended to the model number identify factory installed accessories. Information Label The information label is located in the upper right corner of the fresh food compartment just below the divider. The label provides the following information:. Serial number. LP gas (propane) pressure.
- Serial Number See Electrical
- Serial Number See Electrical Wiring
- Serial Number See Electrical Wiring
- Serial Number See Electrical Outlet
- Serial Number See Electrical Panel
- Serial Number See Electrical Switch
JEEP Serial Numbers, ProductionFigures, & Models
Go To:
Quick Army & CivilianJeep History Timeline
Master List of All Traditional Size Jeep ModelsProduced
World War Two Jeep Specifications
WWII Jeep Production & Jeep SerialNumber statistics
How To Find WWII Jeep Serial Numbers- 3 Locations
HowTo Find WWII Jeep Trailer Serial Numbers - 2 Locations
HowTo Determine your WWII Jeeps Day of Date of Delivery - calculator
What are WWII Army JeepHood Registration Numbers?
Where & How do I findHood Registration Numbers on WW2 Jeeps?
Can you estimate my WWIIArmy Jeep's Hood Registration Numbers?
1946, 1947, etc Military Jeeps
Serial Numbers on Military and WillysOverland Civilian Jeep Engines
SerialNumbers on Civilian Willys Jeep Bodies
Willys Overland Civilian JeepProduction Figures 1945-1961
How To Find M38A1 FenderData Plate Location
WillysHotchkiss French Military M201 Jeep Production Figures 1955 - 1966
AMCJeep CJ Serial # / VIN & Production Figures 1975 - 1986
HowTo Locate Serial / VIN Numbers on Kaiser & AMC Jeep CJs
DecodingAMC Jeep CJ Vehicle Identification Numbers (VIN) for 1975 - 1986
Quick Army & CivilianJeep History Timeline
1908: John North Willys buys the Overland Automotive Division of StandardWheel Company.
1912: John North Willys renames it Willys-Overland Motor Company.
1936: Willys-Overland Motors Inc. is created after coming out of bankruptcyfollowing the Great Depression.
1940: First prototypes jeeps are produced by Bantam, Willys, Ford forthe military.
1941: The Willys MA, Ford GP, Bantam BRC-40 pre standardized (prototype)jeeps are in production..
1941: Bantam jeep production ends.
1941: Willys MB military jeep production starts.
1942: Ford GPW military jeep production starts.
Serial Number See Electrical
1942: Bantam military jeep trailer (T-3) production starts.
1945: Ford GPW military jeep production ends.
1945: Willys MB military jeep production ends.
1944: Willys-Overland experiments with its 1st Civilian Jeep by modifyinga few military MB jeeps. Willys labels them as CJ-2 (These are not CJ-2A's).
1945: Willys-Overland begins producing the Civilian Jeep (CJ) line,when it introduces the CJ2A model, and ceases MB military jeep production.
1946: Willys Jeep Wagon production starts.
1946: Bantam civilian jeep trailer (TC-3) production starts.
1947: Willys Jeep Truck Production starts.
1948: Willys Jeepster production starts.
1949: CJ3A civilian jeep production starts.
1950: Willys M-38 military jeep production starts.
1952: Willys M-38A1 military jeep production starts.
1952: Willys CJ3B civilian jeep production starts.
1953: Bantam civilian jeep trailer production ends. Bantam goes outof business.
1953: Willys-Overland bought by Henry J. Kaiser and is renamed WillysMotors Inc.
1954: CJ5 civilian jeep production starts.
1960: M-151 military jeep production starts.
1963: Willys becomes Kaiser-Jeep Corporation
1965: Kaiser-Jeep discontinues production of Willys wagons & trucks,retiring the Willys name with the line.
1970: Kaiser (Kaiser-Jeep) is bought by American Motors Corp. (AMC)and becomes Jeep Corporation.
1971: Jeep Corp.'s General Products Division spins off to become AMGeneral Corp.
1983: AM General sold to LVT Corp.
1987: AMC bought by Chrysler Corporation.
1998: Chrysler purchased by German Co. Daimler-Benz AG. becoming DaimlerChryslerCorp.
(moments later, thousands of WWII US Dead rolledover in their graves).
2008: German Company Daimler-Benz AG. splits up DaimlerChrysler Corp.,and sells Chrysler off. Jeep is again owned by Americans.
| Pigmy (2): | 2 of a kind Ford hand built prototypes. |
| Quad (2): | 2 of a kind Willys hand built prototypes. |
| BRC-60: | Bantam Pilot Model, Round Grill - 70 Built. aka Mark II, Mk II |
| BRC-40: | American Bantam Jeep. |
| BRC-40-4WS: | American Bantam Jeep, 4 Wheel Steering - 50 built. |
| BRC-40 Checker: | Checker Cab Co, Built 2-3 Jeeps based on Bantam BRC-40. |
| CPJ: | Chevrolet Prototype Jeep - 2 built in WWII. |
| MA: | Willys Military model A, first of Willys production line jeeps. |
| MA-4WS: | Willys Military model A with 4 Wheel Steering - 50 built. |
| MB: | Willys Military model B, mass produced jeep of WWII. Flat fenders;no tailgate; rear mounted spare tire; split windshield with windshieldwipers at top. |
| 1941-42 MB Slat Grill: | 'Willys' stamped on left rear body panel, Most, but not all, do nothave a glove box; no gas can. |
| Stamped Steel grille has 9 slots. | |
| MZ: | very end of WWII production jeeps, 24volt transfer case mounted generators. |
| GP: | Ford First model Military. |
| GP-4WS: | Ford First model Military with 4 Wheel Steering - 50 built. |
| GPW: | Ford Military 80' wheelbase, Willys design. Mass produced during WWII.grille has 9 slots. |
| tailgate area of early Ford GPW models were embossed with 'Ford' inscript; no gas can. | |
| Flat fenders; no tailgate; rear mounted spare tire; split windshieldwith windshield wipers at top; grille has 9 slots. | |
| GPW-4WS: | Ford Military 80' wheelbase, Willys design with 4 Wheel Steering -50 built. |
| GPA: | WWII Ford GPW Jeep with Hull Body (amphibious). |
| CJ-1: | Modified 1944 MB's aka 'AGRI-JEEP' - no known survivors. |
| CJ-2: | Pre-Production using many WWII MB parts, less than 25 known. |
| CJ-2A: | 1st mass-produced civilian jeep. 1945-49 CJ2A - flat fenders, low hood,side mounted spare; 7 slot grille; split windshield with windshield wipersat top; has tailgate. |
| CJ-3A: | 2nd mass-produced civilian jeep. 1949-53 CJ3A - flat fenders, low hood,1-piece windshield frame with bottom wipers. More than 132,000 are madebefore the production ends in 1953. |
| CJ-3B: | High-hood mass-produced civilian jeep. 1953-64 CJ-3B - flat fenders,tall body grille & hood to accommodate the Hurricane F-Head 4 cylinderengine; has tailgate and side mounted tire carrier. |
| CJ-V35: | Military custom order. Cross between MB, M38, CJ-3A. In 1950,1000 modified CJ-3A's were produced for the U.S. Navy as the underwaterCJ-V35/U. |
| M-606: | Military High-hood, flat fenders, based on the CJ-3B, built in quantityalongside the CJ-3B, but for export only. |
| M-606A1 / M-606A2 | round fender militarized CJ5's. M606A1 (12v) and M606A2 (24v), bothfor US Armed Forces and Export from 1965 thru 1972 |
| X-98 + | 1949-50 - a flatfendered jeep with rounded CJ5style hood & grill. Another 'MissingLink' jeep. Flatfenders with no apron. |
| 1950 - experimental- less than 5 known. CJ-4's have Flat Fenders that WITH a short lowerapron on them. | |
| M-38: | Military 3rd or 'C' model. 1950-52 M38 - 1-piece windshield; tailgatewith rear mounted spare. |
| M-38E1: | 1950-51 Experimentalpredecessor to the M38A1. It was based on the CJ-4 experimental Jeep.Flat Fenders with apron skirts. |
| M-38A1: | Military 4th or 'D' model. 1952-57 M38A1 - first appearance of roundfenders on a jeep (looks similar to CJ-5). 24volt deep water fording. |
| CJ-5: | 1st mass-produced civilian jeep with round fenders. |
| 1954-69 CJ5 | 1st V-8 in short wheel base utility vehicle; 1 piece windshield; roundfenders; curved door opening |
| 1970-83 CJ5 | low mounted wipers |
| XM-170: | Experimental cousinof the CJ-4. A 'Stretched' or 'Long Wheel Base Jeep' deigned for ambulanceduties. |
| M-170: | Long wheelbase Military Ambulance (similar to CJ-6). |
| CJ-6: | stretched Jeep. 1955-81 CJ-6 - same basic features as early model CJ5'swith 20' stretched wheelbase. |
| DJ: | Dispatch Jeep - Mail / Post Office Jeep : 2wd - Many Models & sizesmade. |
| M-422: | Mitey Mite. Aluminum Marine Corps Jeep, built by AMC. |
| M-422A1: | Mighty Mite. Longer version of M-422. almost 4,000 built. |
| M-151: | Prototype by Willys, built by Ford, AMC. MUTT (Mobile Utility TacticalTruck). |
| M-151-A1: | Vietnam Military Jeep Built by Ford, AMC, AM General. |
| M-151-A2: | post-Vietnam to Pre-Hummer Military Jeep Built by Ford, AMC, AM General. |
| M-718: | Ambulance version of the M-151 |
| CJ-7: | 1976-86 CJ7 - full squared door openings; factory roll bar. |
| CJ-8: | Scrambler - 1981-85 CJ8 - pick-up truck version of CJ; spare tire mountedin cargo bed. |
| CJ-10: | |
| YJ: | Wrangler - 1987-96 - square headlights; leaf springs & swing outtail gate; sport bar extended starting in 1992. |
| TJ: | Wrangler - 1996+ - round headlights; coil suspension front & rear;gas filler spout on side. |
| Rubicon Wrangler: | 2003+ - Dana model 44 axles front & rear, and Rock-Trac 4:1 lowrange transfer case, trail ready right from the factory. |
| Icon Uniframe body: | 2002+ - with integrated aluminum roll cage |
| Willys II Concept Car: | 1-piece carbon fiber body on an aluminum frame; Suspension Front Independentshort-and-long-arm (SLA) with coil-over-shock setup Rear: Multi-link solidrear axle with coil-over-shock setup |
| Willys Jeep Wagon: | Over 300,000 are manufactured between 1946 and 1965. |
| SJ: | Wagoneer - 1963-83 - Station Wagon; vertical grille |
| Cherokee: | 1974-83 |
| XJ: | Cherokee - 1984+ - UniFrame Body, front coil springs & rear leaves |
| Grand Wagoneer: | 1984-91 - horizontal grille & leaf springs |
| ZJ: | Grand Cherokee - 1993-98 - UniFrame Body, Quad coil spring suspension |
| WJ | Grand Cherokee - 1999+ - sleeker body contour than ZJ |
| KJ: | Liberty - 2002+ - replaces the Cherokee; UniFrame Body; firstJeep with side air bags. |
| Jeepster: | Willys Jeepster. From 1948 to 1950 only 19,000 vehicles are manufactured. |
| Jeepster Commando: | |
| Willys Jeep Truck: | 1947 to 1965 - more than 200,000 are manufactured. |
| MJ: | Comanche - 1984-91 - compact pick-up |
| FC: | Forward Control Jeep Van Trucks |
| FJ: | Eagle Talon |
Tuxedo Junction Models
Hurst Jeeps
Surrey Jeeps
Mules:1/2ton M274 MechanicalMule: Willys built the first MechanicalMule prototype in 1953 under a development contract with the U.S. Army.Production began in 1957, with vehicles going to the US Army and to theUS Marines. By 1960, Willys had built 2,452 mules, and an additional 1,905more mules between 1962 and 1964. From 1964 to 1970 several other manufacturersalso built the Mule with similar but different engines because U.S. Governmentcontracts stipulated blueprint sharing between competing manufacturers. The M274A1 Army Mule was produced from 1962-1964 by Willys Motors, Inc.In March of 1963, Willys Motors, Inc. was renamed the Kaiser-Jeep Corporation.Any mules built after the name change would have 'Kaiser-Jeep' data plates.Prior to that, they would be 'Willys Motors, Inc.' data plates. Iwill assume that A3's & A4's were not stamped as being built in theyear they were converted, but retained the original year of manufacture.
Re: 4WS = Four Wheel Steering
Standard: Grill, Hood, Front Fenders, Windshield, Seats, Motor, Trans.
Different: FRAME, BODY TUB, SHOCKS, STEERING BOX, STEERING LINKAGE,AXLES, And All sorts of extra parts need to have all 4 wheels steer.
How do i know? I own 1 of the 50 made Ford GP 4 Wheel Steering Jeeps(approx. 12 known survivors).
World War Two Jeep Specifications
Wheelbase: 80 inches (2.032 m).
Width: 62 inches (1.5748 m).
Height:
Top Up: 69.75 inches (1.77165 m).
To top of steering Wheel with Top Down: 51.25inches (1.30175 m).
Weight (gross): 3125 lb. (1,417.4761563kg).
Engine: 4 cylinder (Willys L-head), 134 cubic inches (2.200cm3)displacement, carburetor, liquid cooled.
Horsepower: 60 at 4.000 rpm.
Transmission: 3 speed, type Warner T-84J.
Transfer case: 2 speed, type Spicer 18.
Electrical system: 6 volt, negative ground.
Brakes: Hydraulic (Bendix).
Tires: 6.00 - 16 (4 + 1).
Fording depth:
without preparation: 18 inches (0.45 m).
with deep water fording kit:
Fuel type: Gasoline (Petrol).
Fuel capacity: 15 gallons (56.78 liters).
Range: 375 miles (600 km).
Crew: 1 + 3.
The Go Devil 134.2 Jeep Engine
The power and torque of the L-Head engine is one of the main reasonswhy Willys won the contract with the War Department beating out the BantamBRC40 and the Ford GP. The Willys GO Devil engine out-performed the enginesused in the Ford and Bantam prototype jeeps. The L-Head engines uses acast iron block and cylinder head with 3 main bearings and mechanical lifters.The engine is called an L-Head is because the valves for the intake andexhaust are in the block. (Most engines have the valves in the head). Thisdesign gave Willys the advantage of having a relatively lower profile thanother engines. Part of the War Dept.'s specifications called for the vehicleto have a low silhouette to avoid detection by the enemy. The 'Go Devil'engine earned its fame in the WWII ARMY MB. The L-Head continued to beused by Willys Overland in the post World War Two jeeps: CJ-2A, WillysWagon, Willys Pickup, CJ-3A, M38, and DJ-3A The MB used a Carter W-O carburetor,while the civilian models used the Carter YF carb. they are very similarto each other. The military engines used a roughly cast crankshaft,(since it's official life expectancy in combat was only 3 months, why expendthe extra time, materials, and machining), while post war engines had nicelybalanced crankshafts with bolt on counter weights. The performance specificationsare slightly different between civilian and military motors presumablydue to carburetor, crankshafts, and compression differences between theengines. The L-Head used in 1945-1950 CJ-2A's and the 1949-1950 CJ-3A'sare rated the same
The Jeep Drive Train
The MA, MB, and GPW used the L-head 134.2 cubic inch Inline 4 cylinder'Go Devil' engine, T-84 3 Speed manual transmission, Dana 18 two speedtransfer case, Dana 25 front axle, and Dana 23-2 rear axle turning 6:00x 16 tube tires mounted on 16 inch rims.
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WAR-TIME JEEP SERIAL NUMBERS & PRODUCTION.
| Model | Year | Starting Serial Number | Ending Serial Number | Total Production | Notes |
| 1940 | 01 | 70 | 70 | The BRC was Bantam's prototypeJeep that went up against the Willys MA and the Ford GP to try to win thecontract with the U.S. Government for the best designed jeep. It lost toWillys. The BRCs were produced in 3 batches, The first 70 (BRC60 aka MarkII, Mk II) had rounded noses. The more common BRC40s were produced in 2production runs. The first batch of 1,175, and the 2nd batch of 1,430. Bantam built approx. 2,675 of them, from 1940 to 1941.Most were given to our allies. Serial #'s shown in red are based solely on survivingdata plates, and not from company records. This indicates the highest knownSerial No. at years end. | |
| 1941 | 2651 | 2,605 | |||
| 1941 | (50) | ||||
| 2,675 | |||||
| Model | Year | Starting Serial Number | Ending Serial Number | Total Production | Notes |
| Quad | 1940 | 2 | The Quad was Willys hand builttest prototype. The MA was Willys prototype Jeep. It won Willys the contractwith the U.S. Government by besting the Bantam BRC-40 and the Ford GP Prototypes.Willys built approx. 1,550 of them, all in 1941. | ||
| MA | 1941 | 78401 | 79900 | 1,555 | |
| 1941 | 85501 | 85550 | 50 | ||
| MB | 1941 | 100001 | 108598 | 8,598 | Willys built approx. 361,339 MB'sfrom late Oct. 1941 through late 1945. The first 25,808 MB's manufactured by Willys used a differentgrill than the stamped, pressed sheet metal grill one most people are familiarwith. This 'slat grill' grill was made out of flat steel stock weldedtogether. The remaining stamped grill MB jeeps totaled 335,531 units. |
| MB | 1942 | 108599 | 200022 | 91,424 | |
| MB | 1943 | 200023 | 293232 | 93,210 | |
| MB | 1944 | 293233 | 402334 | 109,102 | |
| MB | 1945 | 402335 | 459851 | 57,517 | |
| 362,841 | |||||
| Model | Year | Starting Serial Number | Ending Serial Number | Total Production | Notes |
| Pigmy | 1940 | 2 | The Pygmy was Ford's hand builttest prototype. The GP was Ford's Jeep prototype that went up againstthe Willys MA and the Bantam BRC40 to try to win the contract with theU.S. Government for the best designed jeep. Ford built 4,458of themin 1941. | ||
| GP | 1941 | 8524 | 16603 | 4,458 | |
| 1941 | (50) | ||||
| GPW | 1941 | None | None | 0 | Serial #'sshown in red are based solely on surviving data plates, and not from companyrecords. This chart indicates the highest known serial number at yearsend. Ford numbered their jeeps based on the serial number of the enginethat was installed in them. However, engines were issued out of order,so there will be overlaps were lower serial numbers were issued after higherserial number GPWs had already left the plant. Ford built 277,896 GPW's from late Feb. 1942 through 15Aug.1945. |
| GPW | 1942 | 1 | 90837 | ||
| GPW | 1943 | 90216 | 170336 | ||
| GPW | 1944 | 170660 | 246405 | ||
| GPW | 1945 | 247172 | 277825 | ||
| 281,448 | |||||
Checker Cab company built 2-3 Jeeps based on the Bantam BRC40
Chevrolet built 2 prototype jeeps in WWII.
Total Jeeps Producedfor WWII = 647,870
Wheredo I find my WW2 Jeeps Serial Numbers?
All MB's and GPW's had serial #'s in 3 places. SeeAlso The History of the Jeep Name Webpage.
- THE DATA PLATES ON THE GLOVE BOX DOOR
- The middle of the 3 plates on the glove box door (or dashboard on the earlyslat grill MB's, since Slatgrill MB's didn't have glove boxes) in frontof the passenger is the plate with the serial number on it. These platesare often missing. The Nomenclature (center) plate has the vehicle identificationinformation including; the Manufacturer (Willys or Ford), the Model (MBor GPW), the Serial Number, and the Date of Delivery (Date of Manufacture).These Data Plates were made out of Brass, Pot Metal, Steel, and Aluminum.Be very careful removing paint or straightening dents on your data platesbecause valuable information about your Jeep can easily be destroyed inthe process.
- Early plates were Brass, were 3 pc. set, and were marked QuartermasterCorps.
- The data plates of some of the early quartermaster procured Willys MB jeepshave 'QMC' stamped on the pad immediately after 'Make and Model: WillysMB'.
- Mid-war Jeeps were made of any combination of metals; Brass, Aluminum,Steel, Pot Metal in a 3 pc. set, marked Ordnance Department.
- Sometime in 1944, a 4th data plate was added to the set. The new platewas called the 'Shipping Plate' because it contained information neededto help boat & aircraft loaders plan for shipping jeeps and landingjeeps on beach head battlefronts. They were still made of any combinationof metals; Brass, Aluminum, Steel, Pot Metal and marked Ordnance Dept.
- The data plates of some of the later ordnance department procured WillysMB jeeps have 'ORD' stamped on the pad immediately after 'Make and ModelWillys MB'.
- Some later Willys MB data plates are also stamped with an ordnance dept.'Crossed Canons' stamp.
- No Ford GPW data plates are stamped with an ordnance dept. 'CrossedCanons' stamp, only Willys were.
- Photoof Early (1942) Ford GPW Jeep Quartermaster Corps 3 pc Brass Data Plateset.
- Photoshowing faded original Early Ford GPW Brass Data Plates.
- Photoof Late Ford GPW Jeep Ordnance Department 3 pc Data Plate set on glovebox door.
- Photoof Late Willys MB Ordnance Dept. 3 piece Aluminum Data Plate set.
- Photoof Late (1945) Ford GPW Ordnance Department 4 pc Steel Data Plate set.
- THE LEFT FRONT FRAME RAIL
- The Willys MB JEEP
- The Ford GPW JEEP
- THE JEEP ENGINE BLOCK
- The Ford GPW JEEP Engine Serial Number
- The Willys MB JEEP Engine Serial Number
- BODY TUB SERIAL NUMBERS
- The Willys MB JEEP
- The Ford GPW JEEP
- All World War Two Military Jeeps had their Serial Number stamped onthe front of the jeep on the left-side frame rail behind the front bumperon driver’s side. The exact manner & location differed between a WillysOverland MB's and Ford's GPW Jeep.
- The Willys MB jeep used a small aluminum or pot metal tag that wasriveted with 2 rivets to the inside frame horn on the frame box reinforcementwhere the front most leaf spring shackle mounts. Ford jeeps did not havethis 'box'. Photographof Early Willys MB Small Frame Data Plate and same area on a Ford GPW. The Willys Frame Tags came in two sizes. The Early style was smalland only contained the serial #. The Late style was larger and containedtext as well as the serial #. The later tags had 'Jeep' stamped on themin addition to the serial number. Photographof Late Willys MB Large Frame Data Plate. This tag is stamped withthe serial number as 'M B # # # # # #' (always6 digits total after the MB). To locate the Willys tag, look on the insideof the left (driver's side) frame rail (frame horn) just behind the bumper,on the frame box reinforcement where the front leaf spring shackle mountsto the front frame horn - you almost have to stick your head in betweenthe radiator grill and the bumper and then turn your head to driver's sideto see the small tag riveted to the reinforcement plate that the leaf springshackle attaches to. There, should be found the little metal (zinc) tagheld in place with two small twist rivets. The serial number on this tagshould match the serial number on your jeeps glove box data plates, butit will not match the Willys MB engine serial number on toe board gussetbody number.
- The Ford GPW jeep had it's serial number stamped into the frame itself,on the top of the left frame rail. The numbers can be from 1 to 6 digitslong and the sequence starts and ends with a 5 pointed star stamped intothe frame. The format used on GPWs can run from
- WWII Jeep engines also had a serial number stamped into a rounded bosson the passenger side of the engine block, behind the oil filter canister.It is on the right side of the engine, near the front of the block, justbelow the cylinder head, on a machined pad that is directly behind theoil filter and it is usually covered with grease, grime, and dirt.
- The Ford engine serial number is the jeep serial #, (as long as theengine hasn’t been replaced). The numbers can be from 1 to 6 digits longand the sequence usually starts and ends with a 5 pointed star that isstamped into the boss. The format used on GPWs can run from
Photographof Ford GPW Jeep Engine Serial Number. (Oil Filter housing has beenremoved).
- Willys jeep engine serial numbers are of marginal help. The Willysengine serial numbers do NOT match the jeep's data plate serial numbers,nor the frame serial numbers, even if it is the original factory installedengine that is still in the vehicle. This is because Willys engines weretaken out of the production line as needed and put into portable powergenerators, searchlight units, and welders. This meant that gap betweenthe serial number of the engines and the serial number of the jeeps theywent into got farther and farther apart as time progressed because moreand more engines were taken off the jeep line and put into something elseother than a jeep. The engine boss or pad is stamped with the serial numberas 'M B # # # # # #' (always 6 digits totalafter the MB).
Photographof Willys MB Jeep Engine Serial Number. (Oil Filter housing in place).
- Willys MB body tubs are stamped with a serial number on the driver'sside toe board gusset. This large triangular brace is welded on the bodytub inside the engine compartment on the lower portion of the firewall.The body tub serial number stamping is in a 6 digit format in rather largesize characters. The Body Tub Serial Number does not match the data plateserial number, the frame serial number, or the engine serial number. Itis so far of little to no use in determining your jeeps real serial number.
- The GPW bodies built by Ford in house did not have a body tub serialnumber stamped into the toe board gusset.
The GPW bodies built by American Central Manufacturing (ACM Type 2body) for Ford starting at the end of 1943 did have a body tub serial numberstamped into them. These ACM bodies built for Ford are stamped with a serialnumber on the driver's side toe board gusset. This large triangular braceis welded on the body tub inside the engine compartment on the lower portionof the firewall. The body tub serial number stamping is in a 6 digit formatin rather large size characters. The Body Tub Serial Number does not matchthe data plate serial number, the frame serial number, or the engine serialnumber. It is so far of little to no use in determining your jeeps realserial number. (See similar informationon the willys civilian jeeps)
How To Find your WW2 Jeep's Date of Delivery Day
Have you ever wondered about your Jeep's Birthday? What day of theweek was it made on? If you are lucky enough to have your original Jeepdata plates still on your jeep after all these years then you are in luck.Here's a link to my online Dateof Delivery Day Calculator as well as a interactive perpetual calendarfor determining which day of the week your Willys MB or Ford GPW Jeep orJeep Trailer was built on. No, knowing what day of the week your Bantam,Ford, or Willys was built on doesn't really provide you with any new insightinto your jeep, but there was always talk about 'Monday' built vehiclesbeing of lesser quality because of worker's hangovers, and 'Friday' vehiclesbeing of lesser quality because builders were tired after a long work weekand wanted to go home. So I guess 'Wednesday Jeeps' were the best! ;-)
Whatare WWII Army Jeep Hood Registration Numbers? Where & How do I findHood Registration Numbers on WW2 Jeeps? Can you estimate my WWII Army Jeep'sHood Registration Numbers?
Get the answers to these questions by going toTheWWII Jeep Hood Number Estimator / Generator for estimating andgenerating WW2 Registration Numbers found on Willys & Ford MB/GPW,MA, GP, BRC Jeeps.
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1946, 1947, etc. Military Jeeps
Willys stopped making WWII MB military jeeps in 1945. They didn't evenfinish filling the contract as the Government canceled it after the warended. In short order Willys went right into producing a civilian jeep,the CJ-2A, for farms, construction, and other civilian uses.There has always been a desire by some to own an army jeep. Thisdemand has often been unable to be met by the number of real military jeepsavailable for purchase. The impatient types have often resorted togetting an early civilian Willys jeep and militarizing it with army surplusjeep parts. These cobble jobs, as they are sometimes referred to, whileperhaps ending the waiting process actually does a disservice to two hobbies.The Civilian Jeep collectors, and the Military jeep collectors. Ittakes a good CJ jeep and ruins it by drilling 100's of holes in the bodythat don't belong there. It removes one CJ jeep from the market of restorableones. In addition, it consumes dozens & dozens of military MB/GPW partsthat would otherwise be available for true military jeep restorations.
It's also a horrible investment of money. It's a horrible investmentof your time as well. The time it takes to locate, mark, and drillall those holes could have been better spent restoring the jeep body tub,or locating a real military jeep or parts. $$$ investment wise itis a bad idea as well. It will cost you a ton of money to buy all thosemilitary parts, but you won't be able to sell it for what a real militaryjeep is worth. So you end up spending about the same to acquire thejeep, spend a lot more time locating where to drill, and locating &buying the parts, and paying to have the parts shipped to you, and whenyou go to sell it years later, very few people are interested in buyinga fake army jeep. Why waste the time, labor, and spend the $, and thennot have something that is an investment or worth anything for your heirs?
Is someone trying to sell you a restored 1946 MilitaryJeep?
There were no military jeeps produced between the end of 1945-1949.
If any one of the data plates on the dash or the firewall or framesay CJ-2a (or CJ at all) than it is civilian - the C = Civilian, the J= Jeep. To this day some people take civilian jeeps and drillholes and add all the military grab handles & parts, paint it OD greenw/stars and then try to pass it off as a military jeep. ebay is fullof them. They are not actually worth much. They are worth less thana civilian jeep restored as a civilian jeep, and a lot less than a truemilitary jeep correctly restored.
The military jeep collectors don't want it because it is not reallya military jeep. I don't recommend investing in one because they won'tbuy it from you down the road. The civilian jeep collectors don't wantit either because it is now a Swiss cheese jeep body tub with all the holesdrilled in it that do not belong there - so they won't buy it. Theonly buyers for such a jeep in the future are the people who just don'tcare... True jeep collectors (both military & civilian)are willing to pay more to get the right jeep done right. They will bewilling to pay more than someone who just wants any old jeep and wouldsettle for a bastardized one.
I like both military & civilian jeeps, but I'm not so big on themixed up ones.
Serial Numbers onMilitary and Willys Overland Civilian Jeep Engines
The quickest way to tell the difference between a civilian engine blockand a military engine block I have found is the water pump boss on theblock.
First what are the dimensions of the machined boss ABOVE the waterpump? Are there any #'s stamped there?
If it looks like the boss is about 2' across then it is probably aWWII military block. (Many times it has a single letter stamped on it)
WWII Military: flat spot is about 1/2' x 2' across.
Civilian: flat spot is about 1/2' x 4' across.
This long flat spot is also where they usually stamped the engine serial# on civilian motors.
This is the sure fire way to tell it is a WWII block even when #'sare ground off.
Military Engine Blocks: The engine serial number was locatedon the top front passenger side of the engine block behind the oil filteron a machined boss.
Civilian Engine Blocks: The engine serial number was locatedat the front of the engine block on the water pump boss. SeePic.
Cast Numbers on engine;
Engine block #638632 is the correct number for a MB engine block.
The assembly date (month, day, and year of production) can be foundstamped on the pan surface at rear main bearing cap.
Cylinder head #639660 would be the head number for a MB engine.
It appears that WILLYS in raised letters was added to cylinder headsin mid 1943, and JEEP was added in mid 1944.
At engine # MB288835 the cylinder head bolts/cap screws were changedto studs and nuts.
Engines with Numbers Stamped in BOTH Places.
I have seen where many of the Post war engines have had the WWII Bosstab location machined smooth, as if to allow it to be stamped there ifneed be. Perhaps it was in case the engine would be sold to the US, Canadian,or French Military as a replacement engine, or exported to India or elsewhere. Or in case it was used as a power plant engine in a welding, water pumping,electrical generator trailer rig set up.
Sometime you will come across an engine that has numbers/charactersstamped both on the boss above the water pump, AND the boss behind theoil filter.
One or the other should be the serial number of the engine. I haveheard 2 possible explanations as to what the other numbers/characters stampedin the block on the OTHER tab mean. I haven’t spent any time verifyingthe 1st one. The 2nd one I can verify.
1) Sometimes at the factory, an inspector would stamp his inspection#/ID in that spot.
2) Post war engine rebuilders would stamp the invoice/PO # there forguarantee / warranty reference, in case the engine came back in the future.
You have to use some common sense here. If the #'s on the Oil FilterSide boss start with 'MB' or 'GPW', then that is the serial # and the otheris an inspection stamp. If the #'s on the Oil Filter boss are long anddon't make any sense, then it is a PO/Work Order #, and the real serial# has either been ground off by the rebuilder (and then over-stamped withthe rebuilders own work order number), OR the real serial number is outthere on the water pump boss because the block is a CJ block.
SerialNumbers on Civilian Willys Jeep Bodies
The following is info I have written down form other sources, buthave not verified with my own eyes.
Early Willys Jeeps - CJ-2As:
There are 2 Vehicle Identification plates;
Number one in the left front part of the chassis frame the same asthe WWII MB jeeps, and
Number two under the hood in the right side of the firewall where theFuel Filters went on MB/GPW jeeps in WW2.
Both should have the same serial number. You should be able to datethe jeep by these serial #'s using the charts inserted below on this webpage.
There is also a toe board gusset serial number, or body number, thesame as on W.W.II MB's and later GPW's, stamped in the left toe board gusset'triangle' located in front of the drivers side toe board. It is visibleby opening the hood. The number on the toeboard gusset is a number assignedby the body manufacturer (ACM, I believe). Just as in WWII, there is somecorrelation to the Willys frame serial number, however, Willys inventoryrotation practices and bare chassis sales don't allow for an exact matchor even a consistent correlation in numbers. Willys also started theirserial numbers at 10,000 and I don't think ACM did.
So just as in World War Two, the fact that the Willys VIN and ACM bodynumbers differ is correct. It would be a strange coincidence if theymatched.
POST-WARJEEP SERIAL NUMBERS & PRODUCTION
| Model | |||
| 28k |
Willys Overland Civilian Jeep Production Figures
Netscape Users ClickHere
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M38A1 Fender Data Plate Location
Hereis a website that clearly shows where the Willys M38-A1 Fender VIN# DataPlate is located. The Willys factory vehicle serial number plate (VIN numberplate) is located on the rear fenderwell on the M-38 and M-38-A1. Thenumber stamped on it is the actual VIN # of the vehicle. This is the numberthat should be used when titling the vehicle.
Willys Hotchkiss French Military M201 Jeep ChassisNumbers
Netscape Users ClickHere
For more information on the French Military Hotchkiss M201 Jeeps, visithis website.
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AMCJeep CJ Serial # / VIN & Production Figures
How ToLocate Serial / VIN Numbers on Kaiser & AMC Jeep CJs
There are several places to look when trying to find the serial number/ Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on a Jeep CJ. The exact locationthat the VIN number was stamped was moved over the years.
- Look for a nice large data plate located on the dashboardto the left of the steering column.
- Look for a small strip of metal riveted to the backsidetop of the Windshield Wiper Motor Cover. It can be seen by standing outsidethe driver's side of the jeep, looking through the windshield glass atthe wiper motor cover.
- Look for a data plate attached to the firewall, insidethe engine compartment. Look on the firewall in front of both the driveras well as the passenger side.
- Look on the side wall of the vehicle's frame right behind the Right FrontWheel Arch. Approximately just above the leaf spring mount.
- Look on the top wall of the vehicle's frameat the top of the Right Rear Wheel Arch. Approximately top dead centerof wheel arch.
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- POST a QUESTION or COMMENT about identifying FPE Stab-Lok® and Federal Pioneer electrical panels and circuit breakers and about their associated hazards, testing, failure rates
InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.
Here we describe how to reliably identify FPE Equipment:
How to identify Federal Pacific Electric FPE Stab-Lok® electrical panels and circuit breakers.
Find here: Photo guides to identification of Federal Pioneer Stab-Lok® electrical panels and circuit breakers, Photo guides to Federal NOARC load center identification, and Photo guides to identification of Federal Electric panels and circuit breakers.
This article series describes how to identify Federal Pacific Stab-Lok® Electric Panels and circuit breakers in buildings.
This FPE information is for building inspectors, home buyers, home owners, electricians exploring the background of possible hazards associated with Federal Pacific Electric Stab-Lok® circuit breakers and service panels.
Replacement FPE Stab-Lok® circuit breakers are unlikely to reduce the failure risk of this equipment. We recommend that residential FPE Stab-Lok® electrical panels be replaced entirely or the entire panel bus assembly be replaced, regardless of FPE model number or FPE year of manufacture. We do not sell circuit breakers nor any other products.
We also provide an ARTICLE INDEX for this topic, or you can try the page top or bottom SEARCH BOX as a quick way to find information you need.
4 Steps to identify Federal Pacific Stab-Lok® (FPE) Electric Panels
While this article series includes FPE Stab-Lok® equipment part or model numbers (see the complete FPE Stab-Lok ARTICLE INDEX given at the ARTICLE INDEX the bottom of this article ), those examples are provided to assist in the identification of this equipment - tests and field reports indicate that
all of the FPE Stab-Lok® equipment, electrical panels and circuit breakers sold and installed in the U.S. suffers the no-trip breaker and other problems across all residential equipment models and ages. Thanks to Patrick Hedderman for suggesting this clarification.
To identify a Federal Pacific Electric or FPE Stab-Lok electrical panel you will look for specific lettering, naming or labels on the electrical panel, on the panel labels, and inside the panel (opened by your electrician), and look for the characteristic circuit breaker toggle switches used by these brands.
1. Confirm that your Electrical Panel Uses Breakers not Fuses: Confirm you're looking at a circuit breaker panel (switches) not a fuse panel.
Our photo above shows red-faced toggle switches in an electrical panel with a 125A main breaker in the 'ON' position. This is a circuit breaker panel.
Older Federal Electric, Federal Pioneer and similar branded fuse panels do not sport the performance and design concerns we address in this article series.
However those panels or boxes may themselves be obsolete or they could have other unsafe conditions such as over-fusing, rust, corrosion.
Below: our photo shows an example of an older FPE Fuse Panel. The Federal Pacific fuse panel below is not an FPE Stab-Lok product.
Serial Number See Electrical Wiring
2. FPE, Federal Pacific or Federal Pioneer on the panel: Those words on any residential electrical circuit breaker panel will correctly identify an FPE Stab-Lok design, as there were not panels sold under those brands that were not that design.
The phrase may appear as FPE or Federal Pacific, Federal Pacific Electric, or other variations;
see FPE BRAND NAMES below.
To identify the circuit breaker panels and breakers you should start with look for the product name 'Federal Pacific Stab Lok' or 'Federal Pioneer Stab Lok' on the equipment. Or the panel label may simply read FPE, FP, Federal Pacific, or Federal Electric or Federal Pioneer. If the panel bears any of these names and it's a circuit breaker panel, not a fuse panel, it's an FPE Stab-Lok design.
Watch out: Unfortunately all Stab-Lok panels bear the safety concerns discussed in this article series, regardless of panel age, country, use of replacement breakers, or absence of visual evidence of a prior failure. A summary of the Federal Pacific Electric FPE Panel & circuit breaker fire hazard is
at SUMMARY of the FPE Stab-Lok® HAZARD.
Readers of this article should also see FPE Stab-Lok® : FIRES WAITING TO HAPPEN
3. Stab-Lok Look for the phrase Stab-Lok® [shown below] on the electrical panel front or panel door marking or label but be warned that you will not find that phrase on all FP or FPE Stab-Lok electrical panels
4. E-Bus or F-Bus design: E or F-shaped cutouts on the panel bus bars (shown below)
Watch out: Safety warning - while opening the hinged door provided for consumer use to access and reset the breakers is permitted, because there is risk of dangerous or even fatal electric shock in any electrical panel interior, only an expert should actually remove the front cover.
Serial Number See Electrical Wiring
DO NOT try to open up your electrical panel nor to remove circuit breakers yourself. There is live electrical voltage in the panel interior - you could be shocked or killed. Never insert any tool nor should you insert your fingers into the interior of an electrical panel.
Scroll through each of the articles below for photographs and a written description of what you will see at each panel brand or type on the cover and inside.
Names and panel labels associated with the Federal Pacific Stab-Lok® design
Because the names, labeling and appearance of FPE Panels varies both by age and by area of the country where the products were distributed, in this article series we include photographs of a variety of models from the East Coast of the U.S., theWest Coast (FPE in California), as well as some other areas such FPE Stab-Lok® panels in Florida, and FPE in Texas, and Federal Pioneer panels from Canada.
- ACBC American Circuit Breaker Company
- Challenger electric, in the ownership chain of FPE may have distributed FPE Stab-Lok design panels under the Challenger brand.
Details are at CHALLENGER ELECTRIC PANELS
- Connecticut Electric (vendor of FPE REPLACEMENT BREAKERS) Connecticut Electric - aka Unique Breakers Inc. or UBI.
See UBI FPE CIRCUIT BREAKER TEST RESULTS
- EMI, Electro-Mechanical Industries, Inc., Minneapolis MN and possibly other private-brand labels found on FPE electrical panels
Details about EMI Federal Pacific Stab-Lok design panels are at
EMI & PRIVATE BRAND FPE PANELS
- Federal No Ark / Federal NOARK
Details are at FEDERAL NOARK PANELS
- Federal Electric Products Company Newark NJ
Details about Federal Electric panels are at FEDERAL ELECTRIC PANELS
- Federal Electric Stab Lok Breakers in England - UK Stab Loks are described at FEDERAL ELECTRIC PANELS UK Stab-Lok.
We have no UK FE Stab-Lok performance information and are seeking photos, field reports, historical data on UK Federal Electric FE Stab Lok breakers sold, installed, used in the UK.
...
- Federal Pacific Electric / FPE Federal Pacific / Federal Pacific
Details about Federal Pacific, Federal Pacific Electric, and FPE panels and circuit breakers are at
- FPE & FPE Stab-Lok
- Federal Pioneer
Details about Federal Pioneer electrical panels and breakers, a Canadian product, are
at FP FEDERAL PIONEER in CANADA
- FPE
- General Electric NoArk Electrical panels - see FEDERAL NOARK GE GENERAL ELECTRIC
- Stab-Lok®
- FPE-Stab-Lok®
- Unique Breakers Inc. or UBI circuit breakers for FPE -
see FPE REPLACEMENT BREAKERS from Connecticut Electric selling UBI breakers, and
see UBI FPE CIRCUIT BREAKER TEST RESULTS - Also see COUNTERFEIT FPE CIRCUIT BREAKERS just below on this page.
The links given just above as well as the following pages of this article series provide identification photographs and descriptions of FPE Stab-Lok electrical equipment, explain the hazards involved, and recommend replacement offering some panel replacement options. (Note: to protect our readers' confidence, InspectApedia.com does not sell any products nor services.)
Below we provide a photographic library of various types of Federal Pacific (FPE) Stab Lok equipment, including FPE and Federal Pioneer electrical panel covers and labels which permit a consumer to identify the equipment from its exterior as well as circuit breaker labels and other details.
Since there is risk of dangerous or even fatal electric shock, only an expert such as a licensed electrician, electrical engineer, or home inspector should physically remove the front cover to permit inspection of the panel bus and other interior features.
Our Photo Guides to Identification of Federal Pacific Stab-Lok® Electrical Panels and Circuit Breakers Are Presented in the Topics Listed Below and begin
at FPE Stab-Lok® PANEL COVERS.
Counterfeit Federal Pacific Electric FPE Stab-Lok Circuit Breaker Warning
Watch out: separate from companies selling what they assert are new, non-counterfeit FPE Stab-Lok or Federal Pacific Electric circuit breakers that may not perform adequately, there have been absolute fake or counterfeit FPE Stab-Lok circuit breakers sold on eBay and perhaps from other vendors. See
BUSINESS OWNER PLEADS GUILTY TO TRAFFICKING IN COUNTERFEIT CIRCUIT BREAKERS [PDF] - source: U.S. Immigration and Customs Enforcement, retrieved 2018/05/02, original source
Elod Tamas Toldy, owner of Pioneer Breaker and Control Supply sentenced to federal prison for mail fraud and trafficking in counterfeit goods and services for
marketing COUNTERFEIT CIRCUIT BREAKERS on eBay [PDF], under the brand names Zinsco and FPE Stab-Lok. - source: U.S. Immigration and Customs Enforcement, retrieved 2018/05/02, original source https://www.ice.gov/news/releases/texas-business-owner-sentenced-counterfeit-circuit-breaker-scheme - ICE Office of Public Affairs at (202) 732-4242.
Members of the public can report suspected counterfeit operations by calling the U.S. Homeland Security Investigations HSI’s toll-free hotline at: 866-347-2423.
FPE Stab-Lok, Federal Pacific, Federal Pioneer and Other Circuit Breaker Identification Requests,Q&A
Question: confirm the identity of these as problematic Federal Pacific panels
I‘m a home inspector and ran across two Fed. Pacific electric boxes with what looks to be one breaker in each used for two HVAC units as within reach/sight disconnects. I read your article, “The Federal Pacific Electric FPE Stab-Lok® Electrical Hazards Website”, studied it and went back to the house.
I cut power off and tried to pull the break out. It wouldn’t budge.
With the attached pictures, could you please tell me if this box is of concern? - Tim Early, ASHI, NACHI & other certifications, Early Home Inspections, Hampton Roads, Virginia, Tel: 757-478-1280, Email: tim@earlyhomeinspection.com
First photo: FPE Stab-Lok sub-panel identified by embossed 'FPE' on the steel cover. [Click to enlarge any image]
Reply: Federal Pacific Stab-Lok circuit breaker sub-panels used as HVAC service/power switches
Yes Tim, those are FPE stab-lok Breakers of the design which raises the safety concerns about which you have read.
Your first photo shows the standard 'FPE' (Federal Pacific Electric) embossed on the steel panel cover of the sub-panel.
When such a panel is opened, as might be done by a trained professional such as a home inspector or licensed electrician, you're likely to find labels affixed to the panel interior that will also identify the company as might labels on the circuit breakers themselves.
Below is another of your A/C sub panel breaker box photos showing a common Federal Pacific Electric label. All FPE breakers are variations of the 'Stab-Lok' design and virtually all of them, even across decades of production, have shown the failure and reliability concerns discussed in this article series.
Also where the electrical panel bus is visible or partly visible you'll usually find the classic FPE E-shaped or F-shaped cutout openings in the bus bars. If readers 'click to enlarge' the next photo below you might just make out the edge of the bus cutout openings.
Below is an enlargement of part of this photo, showing details of the point of connection of the circuit breaker to the bus. There are some FPE Stab-Lok circuit breaker models that were held secured to the bus by a screw and could not be pulled out directly.
FPE Stab-Lok circuit breakers were produced in 1, 2, 3 and 4-pole designs and in a wide range of ampacities.
You can just make out the edge of the bus into which the breaker is connected and you'll note two screws that may be securing this circuit breaker in place.
You may have read that the hazard of no trip in response to an overcurrent is in fact greater on the 2 pole Breakers such as these.
Watch out: During the course of an ordinary home inspection, I would advise against ever actually try to pull a circuit breaker out of a panel. There's a host of problems including risk of being killed. I speak from some experience although by luck haven't been injured yet.
I tried to pull out a cartridge-type fuse using the homeowner-use T-handle of a bakelite plastic fuse block. It was exciting, having the whole fuse bock base disintegrate under my hand.
I had to leave the building with half power off and half power on waiting for an electrician. My customer asked what I had done. I broke it I said.
Question: Someone substituted a FedPac breaker in a panel of a different brand - is that a problem?
Hi Daniel,
I'm a 'neighbor' in Saugerties, NY and have so appreciated the information I've learned about the Fed Pac breakers on the site. My daughter is moving into a 'new' home (built in '73) and we noticed that there is a fed pac main breaker switch that has been added to her non fed pac box with all the circuit breakers. (Please forgive if I use non electrical language)
It does not say 'stab lok' on the main breaker box. I'm assuming they upgraded from 110 at some point, thus the additional main breaker box.
I'm having someone come look at it, and possibly replace the fed pac part.... but if it doesn't say 'stab lok' on the fed pac main breaker which is the only fed pac product, does it need replacing? Thanks so much for any direction you can provide.
- J.P., Saugerties NY
Reply: Check the panel connecting bus bar design, assure compatible breakers, watch out for amateur work
A competent onsite inspection by an expert usually finds additional clues that help accurately diagnose a problem with an electrical system, and in this case, if odd parts have been substituted in a panel that makes me worry about amateur or 'low budget' prior repairs and problems.
That said, it's worth a careful inspection of the property by an expert home inspector who might pick up other signs that increase or decrease our concern for the electrical system as well as all other topics pertinent to condition of the home.
An electrician can examine that connecting strips (the electrical panel 'bus' or 'bus bars') and tell you what breakers are supposed to connect onto it, and might confirm that by panel labels if they remain in place.
If someone 'forced' into an electrical panel bus a breaker that was not designed for that particular bus, the connections are typically damaged and certainly unreliable and perhaps unsafe.
If you can send along some sharp photos of the circuit breaker in question, and when your electrician opens the panel, photos of the panel interior and the connecting metal bus bars we can make a more definite comment on what you've got.
Our photo illustrates a typical FPE Stab-Lok electrical panel bus showing an 'F'-shaped cutout into which the breaker connectors are inserted. You'll probably notice that the third breaker position from the bottom has burned from overheating.
Watch out: in a fully-populated electrical panel with breakers in every slot you may have trouble seeing these breaker cutout openings. We recommend that you do NOT try to pull circuit breakers for a further look. That step is potentially dangerous, risking electrical shock, injury, fire or death.
Instead look at other clues that identify this circuit breaker brand.
FPE Stab-Lok® circuit breakers may say FPE or Federal Pacific but may not have the words stablok on the breaker - take a look at our circuit breaker identification photos
at FPE BREAKER ID PHOTOS.
The electrical connectors on a given circuit breaker must match the electrical bus bar design in the electrical panel. What will determine the proper and allowable circuit breaker in your panel, besides trying to avoid problem products, is the connecting bus design in the electrical panel - the metal strips into which circuit breakers clip and connect to obtain power.
So if someone substituted a breaker of a brand that does not match the panel brand, the connections might be improper and unsafe.
Question: Is this FP panel an FPE Stab-Lok® Unit?
Over the past 12 years, I have called out hundreds of FPE Stab Lok panels. I am very familiar with these panels after initial learning about them through my ASHI training and gaining significant knowledge from your website. I commonly refresh my memory by visiting your site and direct my clients to your site when they are purchasing a house with one of these panels.
And I always recommend that FPE Stab Lok panels be replaced.
I have attached photos of the Federal Pacific sub panel in question below. Although it is clearly a Federal Pacific panel, there was no 'Stab Lok' markings on the panel and the breakers are not the typical Stab Lok style and color.
I was under the impression that Federal Pacific made other panel styles but only Stab Lok models were problematic.
Is this a Stab Lok panel? - Chris Anderson, Home Spy Property Inspections, Denver CO.
Reply:
Chris thank you so much for the photos and correspondence. Because the panel in your photos is an old and uncommon model, your photos and field observations are important and I will as you suggest add them to our website data
at FPE & FP IDENTIFICATION, HOW TO along with a credit to you.
Serial Number See Electrical Outlet
If you do not want to be identified as a contributor just let me know and I'll be glad to delete that information.
We would much appreciate hearing any comments, critique, suggestions, or further questions that you may have after you've taken a look at that article.
It is not surprising for someone to question whether or not this is a Stab-Lok® design panel as I agree that it does not, from externals, resemble the better-known FPE models in labeling.
And the physical layout of the panel and the close proximity of the four subordinate breakers to the main invites one to question how the bus and breaker design fit into the space behind that internal panel cover plate.
Even having studied many FPE products installed in the field and in photos, both residential and commercial, this exact model is not one I've seen before. It appears to use a copper bus, it is cramped, appears to be double-tapped, possibly improperly wired, and obsolete.
I'd guess this unit is quite old, probably a 'Federal Electric' or a 'Federal Noark' panel made before 'Stab-Lok® ' term was applied to that product design, and possibly dating from the 1950's. I couldn't quite make out the logo on the panel top.
I agree that the breakers look 'different' in their toggle ends from the common Stab-Lok® breakers, but in other FPE Stab-Lok® design photos you'll see some toggle switches that do resemble those in your photos.
Without a direct view inside we can't be dead certain of the exact bus and breaker design, and I agree that it is possible that FPE produced other breaker panels that did not use the Stab-Lok® design, though I've yet to find a record or example of such.
More concisely, in answer to your question - Is this a Stab-Lok® panel? - without seeing the panel interior, I'm not sure. If it's not, it's a first.
I have not found data, field examples, nor photos of a Federal Pacific, FPE, FP, Federal Noark, Federal Electric &c. residential circuit breaker panel that did not use one of the several (problematic) Stab-Lok® bus & breaker designs, and the design shows up as commercial equipment as well.
I have passed on this question to our other FPE experts for comment and will update here accordingly, and we invite comment from other readers or experts on the FPE Stab-Lok® topic.
The FP/FPE fuse panels do not have the same 'no-trip' issue, except for the models that used a combination of both fuses and circuit breakers.
For an example of Federal Electric
see FEDERAL ELECTRIC PANELS.
See FEDERAL NOARK PANELS for an example of Federal NoArk panels of the same design and hazard under an older brand name. .
Those panels, at least the models whose interior we've examined, including some commercial equipment, were indeed built to the Stab-Lok® design even though the product name did not necessarily include those words.
I would agree that you were also correct and acting in accord with home inspection standards to stop where you did, without further disassembly of the panel, as doing so can be dangerous and is beyond the scope of a home inspection. But it would be useful to see the internal bus details.
With 3,000 FPE type breakers already tested the statistical certainty of conclusions drawn from the data is very high. These breakers have a significantly-high rate of failure to perform safely.
Details are at CIRCUIT BREAKER FAILURE RATES and also
at FPE INVESTIGATION CPSC
Even the most well-informed and conscientious building inspector or researcher is going to come across odd, obsolete, rare, or otherwise questionable equipment from time to time, and any reasonable expert should understand how one might have raised doubt about applying the 'Stab-Lok® ' design for the product in your photos.
Adding to the poor performance of FP / FPE breaker equipment this panel is obsolete, crowded, double tapped. Replacing it would make good sense to me.
See details at DOUBLE TAPPED CIRCUIT BREAKERS
We are dedicated to making our information as accurate, complete, useful, and unbiased as possible: we very much welcome critique, questions, or content suggestions for our web articles. Working together and exchanging information makes us better informed than any individual can be working alone.
Question: can you tell me if this is an FPE Stab-Lok Panel
I was wondering if you could tell me if this is a Stab-Lok panel breaker. Is this a concern to replace this FPE panel.
We have three electrical panels
- J.C. Troy NY Contractor, 12/5/2012
Reply:
Yes, J.C.
Serial Number See Electrical Panel
See FPE HAZARD SUMMARY to understand why you should replace this equipment.
Question: is it mandated to change FP panels or is this just your interpretation?
(June 15, 2011) patrick coyne pac1269@ameritech. said:
Are you telling me this is mandated to change these FP panels or is this your interpretation of the Code and Equipment? I am currently unaware that there is a legal mandate to remove these panels. It is rather common knowledge that the trip ratio is poor, but these have been in place for years. I agree that updating to a newer system is safer, but where is it mandated? Respectfully, Patrick Coyne
Reply:
No Patrick, there is no law that requires you to change out an unsafe electrical panel such as the FPE units described here. However some insurance companies will not write fire coverage on homes that have an FPE Stab-Lok panel installed, and most building owners, once reading the level of hazard found with these products, opt to change the equipment.
A circuit breaker that does not reliably trip in response to overcurrent is as dangerous as someone putting a penny in a fuse panel. If you wouldn't accept the penny-fix you wouldn't accept the FPE unit either.
Let me add that the advice to replace FP and FPE electrical panels is not 'just my interpretation'. I report the results of expert, independent test agencies, product history, court actions including finding the company guilty of fraud, CPSC history, and extensive field reports on fires and product failures.
InspectAPedia is an independent publisher of building, environmental, and forensic inspection, diagnosis, and repair information provided free to the public - we have no business nor financial connection with any manufacturer or service provider discussed at our website.
We are dedicated to making our information as accurate, complete, useful, and unbiased as possible: we very much welcome critique, questions, or content suggestions for our web articles. Working together and exchanging information makes us better informed than any individual can be working alone.
Question: Sometimes these breakers don't trip but I've also seen other product failures
(July 24, 2011) bob smitt said:
having installed a lot of fpe panel in my years as an electrician some times the breakers don't trip easy but have also seen the same on other brands some even worse so you just might as well say if you have a panel change it. I have a fpe in my house now and i am not planing on changing it
Reply:
Bob we agree that there are some other brands of concern, but do not agree with your conclusion; the failure rate on FPE equipment is astronomical compared with other field failure reports.
David Carrier was an independent electrical engineer who briefly carried on work by Jess Aronstein by conducting some ongoing tests of multiple brands of circuit breaker for no-trips - (not published as of 2014), but preliminary data, while pointing out other failing components, will by no means let the FPE product off the hook, rather his data, like other work before, confirmed the FPE no-trip breaker problem.
The historical test data on hand through 2014 makes clear that the FPE product suffers no-trip failures as high as over 60% - in an industry where in general circuit breaker no-trip failures are a fraction of one percent.
Question: what part of this FPE stuff is recalled?
(Sept 16, 2011) Eric said:
We have this FPE breaker panel. what part is a recall. how do we go about getting this replaced? what would the cost be to us being that this is a recalled item?
Reply:
Eric:
There was no FPE electrical panel recall.
There was (over the course of FPE history) an allocation to fund an FPE product recall at one point but the recall was never issued. There was also a 'successful' class action lawsuit in New Jersey that gave minimal financial relief to original homeowners where an FPE panel was installed in New Jersey - no longer a source of financial aid.
You wont' find meaningful financial relief for replacing an FPE panel by means of product recall nor class action settlements, but financial aid may be available for homeowners of modest means who apply to local homeowner financial aid agencies.
Question: where's the data on FPE failures
(Dec 25, 2011) Harvey said:
Is there any data on how many actual fires have started that can be traced to the stab lock panels or circuit breakers. I understand the test for failure rates but I want to find data for actual fires in homes.
Reply:
Harvey you will find field reports of FPE failures here that include actual fires and losses, but not a national survey that recounts a total number of fires.
When there is a house fire, very often the root cause is not accurately diagnosed and components that may have been a root cause are completely burned up. Take a look at ' FPE Technical Report - Independent Research 2011' ( on this page we provide an ARTICLE INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES that includes a live link - ) - or
see FPE HAZARD ARTICLES, STUDIES
Question: FPE failure report: '... we found the first plug on a circuit actually melted ...'
(Feb 10, 2012) Ron said:
Dan, Although I am not an Electrician, I agree with your comments. We had a Federal Pacific Panel in our office that was built in the 70's. During the last remodel we found the first plug on a circuit actually melted due to too much power draw on that circuit. The breaker never tripped.
Too close for comfort. I'm sure the panels are fine if there are no electrical overloads or short circuits going on but the breakers are intended for when things aren't right. The accidents and the unintendeds.
Arguing these panels are safe because someone installed them for years and have one in their own house with no problems is like saying a GFIC plug is not needed near a sink because you have never dropped an appliance in the sink.
We had things rewired and the panel replaced.
Serial Number See Electrical Switch
Reply:
Thank you Ron for your comment and for adding another report on FPE real world performance in actual use
...
Continue reading at FPE Stab-Lok® PANEL COVERS or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.
Or see FPE & FP IDENTIFICATION FAQs - questions & answers about how to recognize a Stab-Lok electrical panel posted originally at this page.
Or see these
FPE Identification Articles
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FPE & FP IDENTIFICATION, HOW TO at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.
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INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES: ARTICLE INDEX to FPE STAB-LOK BREAKERS & PANELS
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Technical Reviewers & References
- Chris Anderson, Home Spy Property Inspections, Denver CO, Tel: 303-978-1288, Website: www.homespyinspections.com Email: HomeSpyInspector@msn.com
- Timothy Hemm, Yucala, CA, contributed the photographs of FPE equipment installed in California buildings. Mr. Hemm can be contacted at TimHemm@yahoo.com
- Arlene Puentes, an ASHI home inspector in Kingston, NY, contributed the page top and example photograph of a bank of FPE adjacent electrical panels. Ms. Puentes can be contacted at ap@octoberhome.com
- Jon Bolton, a home inspector, the Inspectigator, FL, contributed the 'camouflage' breaker. Mr. Bolton can be contacted at teamattitude@hotmail.com
- Mary DeMuth, a property owner, contributed the Texas Federal Pacific Electric Load Center photos, May 2006.
- Thomas M. Pino, a professional home inspector, contributed photos of the 100A Texas FPE panel used in a condo. www.sweetwaterhomeinspection.com. Mr. Pino can be contacted at sweetinspect@houston.rr.com or at sweetwaterhomeinspection@yahoo.com
- Patrick Hedderman is a licensed home inspector in Clifton Park, NY. Mr. Hedderman can be contacted by email to heddermanp@yahoo.com or from his listing information at the NY section of Directory of Professionals to Inspect or Test a Building
- The remaining photographs on these pages were made by the web author.
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